January 17, 2007
I think I did a silly thing yesterday. I picked up a couple of bottle of wine without having the Oz book with me. I figured that I’d probably read enough to be able to pick something decent off the shelf all on my own; discarding the crutch of Oz and his chateaux write-ups. Michelle and I had just popped into Super-U in Saujon to grab some bits and bobs and I obviously now find it impossible to spend less than 15 minutes perusing the wine section (even though this particular one was pretty small).
I wanted to buy a decent St-Émilion as I’d not really tried one since starting this little wine adventure, but have been reading the “Right Bank” section of the Oz book, which clearly covers St-Émilion in some detail. I went for a Château Yon-Figeac 2001. It seemed like a reasonable choice – 2001 was a good vintage and Ch. Yon-Figeac is a Grand Cru Classé (OK, so the classification system in St-Émilion is different to that in the Médoc, but that still means decent quality). I was slightly suspicious that the château might have been playing on the name of the great Château Figeac, a St-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, but this aside, everything pointed to this being a good wine – including the price at 22,05 euros.
I also grabbed a bottle from Château Sirene, a Cru Bourgeois from St-Julien. Crus Bourgeois was a Médoc classification established in1932 by producers who didn’t feature in the 1855 classification of the (supposedly) 61 best chateaux in the region. It’s a bit of a messy classification and has been revised a few times over the years – there are now Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels and Cru Bourgeois Supériors as well as standard Crus Bourgeois – so in many ways it’s a little meaningless. Anyway, it’s worth a try and at 11,61 euros wasn’t going to break the bank. I also picked up a bottle of Chateau Lacaussande St-Martin 2005, a white Premières Côtes de Blaye at just 7,65 euros.
I was slightly concerned upon returning home not to find anything but the most basic mention of the Château Yon-Figeac in the Oz book! I thought it might warrant one of his extended entries, but no. Oh dear. We decided to try it last night – at 2001 it was a decent age so should have given us a very good impression. The nose was fine – a good blast of fruit with subtle tobacco and oak aromas – but I wasn’t convinced about its taste at all. It seemed very thin to me, and quite bitter. A bit disappointing. Still finished it off, mind.
I decided to do some online research this morning and, slightly confusingly, it seems to get almost exclusively positive write-ups. I say slightly confusingly, of course, as I’m still very aware that I’m not expert and could well be missing the subtleties of the wine. It’s obviously got a good reputation, and seems to be priced (depending on vintage) at anywhere between £20-30 in the UK. So perhaps I am missing something?
The only solution, I’ve decided, is to try some others for comparison purposes.
January 17, 2007 at 4:06 pm
Dear fellow, may I be as bold to suggest that the fault with your Chateau Yon-Figeac lies not within the wine herself, but perhaps with the treatment you gave her?
A wine of such pedigree would almost certainly benefit from a good decantering and needs to be left in a warm environment for at least 4 hours before drinking. I would say that even the most humble of wines can be transformed by decantering….
And as they say in Croatia, ” You can lead a Horse to water but you can’t tarmac my drive”.
January 17, 2007 at 4:15 pm
Yes, you’re right of course. I really need to start decanting some of these wines - it’s just I get so excited.
I’ve just been reading about decanting as I’d recently seen a sommelier in a restaurant decant a wine in fairly extraordinary fashion - he simply grabbed the bottle by the neck and inverted it into a decanter where it sploshed around enthusiastically. My question, of course, was what happens to the sediment?
I know now that he was most probably decanting a young wine without any sediment, and was just aerating the wine as efficiently as possible. An older wine would have been decanted much more carefully. One entertaining piece I just found referred to this decanting of young wines as “violent decanting” - lovely!
I need to find myself a nice wine decanter. Or I could, of course, start “double decanting” whereby you decant out of the bottle into a clean jug to remove the sediment and then pour back into the bottle. This gives the wine a double dose of oxygen and saves you needing a decanter.
February 15, 2007 at 1:29 am
There might be two reasons for that:
1- A lot of Bordeaux wines suffered when a lot of cellars were renovated for the sake of looking smart during the bubble period, ending up with unconventional chemicals finding their way into the wines.
2- What was the vitage? Here in Japan we still find horrors being sold as great wines. Problem they were 1984 and 1987 vintages!
Cheers,
Robert-Gilles
October 10, 2007 at 3:17 am
I came across your website looking for tasting notes of Château Sirene.
There is very little I can find on the web regarding this Chateau Sirene except that it may be a 2nd wine of Chateau du Glana.
I plan to buy a few bottles of ‘99 Chateau Sirene and would like to hear your opinions before proceeding with this purchase. In other words, I am seeking your tasting notes.
Also, What vintage is the Chateau Sirene that you have purchased?
Thanks and looking forward to hear from you.
Andrew
October 10, 2007 at 7:26 am
Hi Andrew, thanks for your comment.
I think there can be a bit of confusion here. There is a Chateau Sirene (of which I refer in this post) which is a cru bourgeois from St Julien. There is also a wine called La Sirene de Giscours, which is the second wine of Chateau Giscours, a 3rd Cru Classe from Margaux.
I’m afraid I can’t give you a tasting note of the Chateau Sirene I bought as I can’t remember drinking it! And we definitely have because it’s no longer in the cave… That probably means that it didn’t impress too much. However, I’m almost certain that it was younger than ‘99 and would have benefited from more age.
That probably doesn’t help with your purchasing decision very much, I realise!
October 10, 2007 at 3:32 pm
Mark,
Thanks for your reply. I found a store in NYC selling ‘99 Sirene for $20. Will give you it a shot a tell you what I think later.
Much appreciated.
Andrew